H&M wants to make clothing from CO2 using this startup’s tech

The fashion sector is grappling with a significant waste crisis, with approximately one garbage truck's worth of textiles discarded every second. Alarmingly, the industry produces more carbon emissions than both international air travel and maritime shipping combined. In response, various companies are exploring innovative approaches to recycle textile waste and develop sustainable materials that reduce reliance on fossil fuels. One such innovator is Rubi, a startup that aims to revolutionize the production of cellulose-based textiles. Co-founder and CEO Neeka Mashouf explained to TechCrunch that Rubi's technology essentially extracts biological machinery from cells to create the foundational elements of lyocell and viscose. This groundbreaking process enables any business utilizing cellulose to manufacture products from captured carbon dioxide. Recently, Rubi secured $7.5 million in funding to establish a demonstration-scale version of its cellulosic production system, which has the potential to produce tens of tons of material primarily from CO2. The investment round was spearheaded by AP Ventures and FH One Investments, with additional contributions from CMPC Ventures, H&M Group, Talis Capital, and Understorey Ventures, as revealed exclusively to TechCrunch. Rubi has already secured over $60 million in non-binding off-take agreements with several partners, including major players like H&M, Patagonia, and Walmart, and has conducted tests with 15 pilot partners. Unlike other startups that rely on engineered bacteria in fermenters or chemical catalysts, Rubi employs enzymes to produce cellulose for both lyocell and viscose. The current cellulose industry predominantly sources its materials from trees, including plantations and untouched rainforests. Mashouf remarked on the lengthy supply chains involved in sourcing textiles, expressing interest in producing textile-grade cellulose pulp domestically in the U.S., where such production currently does not exist. The inspiration for using enzymes came when Mashouf, a scientist focused on researching new materials, collaborated with her twin sister Leila, a medical student at Harvard. After reviewing existing technologies, they consistently returned to the potential of enzymes, which she notes are already widely utilized in industries like high fructose corn syrup manufacturing and wastewater treatment. Rubi employs a cascading method of enzymes to effectively process waste carbon dioxide. The startup has incorporated AI and machine learning techniques to enhance the enzymes' performance and durability. As carbon dioxide is introduced into their reactors, white cellulose forms within minutes. These reactors are designed to fit within shipping container-sized modules, and Rubi aims to transition to continuous production in the future. While the initial focus is on apparel companies, Rubi envisions supplying cellulose to a broad range of industries that require it. Mashouf stated, "This really is a platform. We see it as a means to produce all essential chemicals and materials across the economy in a cost-effective manner."