The uproar over Vogue’s AI-generated ad isn’t just about fashion

In 2023, Sarah Murray, a commercial model, experienced a wave of emotions upon seeing an AI-generated model donning a Levi’s denim overall dress. Despite the intention to promote diversity through AI studio Lalaland.ai, the backlash was immediate, with critics dubbing it 'artificial diversity.' Murray expressed her frustration, stating that modeling is already a tough industry, and the introduction of AI standards only complicates matters. Fast forward two years, and the concerns have only escalated. The latest controversy erupted when Vogue's July print edition showcased an AI-generated model in a Guess advertisement. This model, embodying conventional beauty standards with thin, voluptuous features and glossy hair, sparked significant online discussion, particularly due to Vogue's influential role in the fashion industry. While Vogue defended the advertisement as meeting their standards, the distinction between ads and editorials blurred for many observers. Experts, models, and technologists are now contemplating the implications of AI's growing presence in fashion. The central question is: if AI can produce high-quality content quickly and affordably, what becomes of human models, photographers, and stylists? Sinead Bovell, a model and founder of the WAYE organization, highlighted that e-commerce models, who typically pose for online advertisements, are particularly at risk of being replaced by automation. Bovell noted that while e-commerce modeling may not carry the same prestige as high-fashion modeling, it provides essential financial stability for many. This reality contrasts sharply with the industry's push to automate, driven by cost-cutting measures. Paul Mouginot, an art technologist, emphasized that working with live models is often seen as prohibitively expensive, leading brands to increasingly rely on AI-generated imagery. The economic motivations are clear: brands are under pressure to create vast amounts of content for social media and e-commerce, far beyond the traditional model of just a handful of campaigns each year. This shift has prompted some to argue that using AI models may not necessarily be about replacing human talent but adapting to a rapidly changing market landscape. Nevertheless, the ethical concerns surrounding AI in fashion remain. Murray worries that brands like Levi's, which claim AI is meant to supplement human talent, may inadvertently sideline diverse models in favor of generated alternatives. This raises questions about cultural appropriation and the authenticity of brand storytelling in an era where AI can produce models that visually represent diversity without the lived experiences behind them. Amidst these concerns, some industry figures advocate for a balance. Sara Ziff, a former model and founder of the Model Alliance, is working towards legislation that would require brands to secure consent and compensate models for the use of their likenesses in AI training. This could potentially open new revenue streams for models while ensuring their rights are protected. As the fashion industry navigates this new landscape, experts like Bovell suggest that models focus on building their personal brands and exploring new avenues for income, such as podcasting and endorsements. The rise of AI does not signal the end for human models but emphasizes the need for adaptability and innovation in their careers. While many brands are experimenting with AI, the consensus is that human talent remains crucial, especially as consumers increasingly value authenticity. The journey ahead for fashion is complex, with Vogue's recent foray into AI serving as a potential litmus test for the industry's evolving relationship with technology. The reaction from the public may shape future decisions, as brands weigh the benefits of AI against the need for genuine human connection in their storytelling.